Is there anything like cucumber in asp.net mvc?
i.e. something that will actually hit the web page using a browser?
Is selenium the only way?
You can use specflow to write cucumber style given-when-then steps, some of which could be selenium rc calls, or watin(.net version of watir) calls if you prefer. This way you can keep the syntax for writing acceptance tests that you're used to, while picking which ever web testing framework works best for you.
Since it's web stuff, with a bit of tweaking, you're not limited to using .net tools to test your asp.net mvc site - a web testing framework doesn't care how the website was made, just as a web browser doesn't.