You can't do that in PHP because the page is rendered by the time you know. And apart from some crazy redirect scenario, your best bet may be to use CSS + JS to show/hide what you need:
What I normally do (and your mileage may vary depending on what you need to show/hide) is this:
<html>
<head>
... other stuff here, title, meta, etc ...
<script type="text/javascript">document.documentElement.className += " js"</script>
... everything else
</head>
Then you can use CSS to hide/show based on if JavaScript is enabled/disabled:
/* Hide by default, show if JS is enabled */
#needsJS { display: none }
.js #needsJS { display: block }
/* Show by default, hide if JS is enabled */
.js #fallback { display: none }